Have you found a great pair of jeans, but the length isn’t what you need? If so, you’re in the right place! We’re going to teach you how to shorten jeans by hemming them at home so you can get your perfect fit. Because who likes to pay alteration fees?
Whether you’re looking to hem your jeans with a sewing machine or by hand, we’re going to give you easy-to-follow steps for both. We’ll also share how to do original hems and hem skinny jeans with you. And, if you need extra help, we also offer private sewing lessons!
Let’s get started!
How Do You Hem Jeans?
The first step to jeans alteration is gathering your supplies! Then, you’ll choose a method: sewing machine or by hemming pants by hand. So, let’s take a look at what sewing tools you’ll need first.
Supplies Needed for Hemming Jeans:
- Jeans
- Sewing machine (unless sewing by hand)
- Measuring tape
- Straight pins
- Chalk tool for marking the hem
- Sewing thread
- Sharp scissors (fabric scissors work best)
You may also be interested in: 33 Sewing Terms and Phrases You Should Know
Now that you have your supplies, you’ll need to measure your inseam. This is the distance between the top of the crotch to the bottom of the pant leg. Regardless of which method you use, sewing machine or by hand, you need to do this first. Once you determine the inseam, subtract that number from the current inseam, and this will tell you how many inches to cut or fold.
For example, if your inseam is 30 inches and the jeans are currently 32 inches, you will need to remove two inches of fabric from the jeans. Mark the new hem location using a ruler and chalk or a fabric marker.
How to Hem Pants on a Sewing Machine
If you want the quickest and easiest method for how to sew jeans, you’ll want to use a sewing machine following these steps:
- Stitch around the edges to prevent fraying after marking and cutting your jeans.
- Use a zig-zag stitch or a serger on the edges.
- Pin the jeans with a 1/2 inch seam allowance on both legs.
- Use a straight stitch to sew all the way around both legs.
- Backstitch at the beginning and end.
- Trim loose threads.
The process takes around 30 minutes, and if you use the right stitch, your jeans will withstand wear and tear for many washes.
It’s essential to use the appropriate needle. I suggest a 100/16 denim needle, but any heavier needle should work fine.
Stitch around the edges to prevent fraying after you mark and cut your jeans. You can do this with a standard sewing machine zig-zag stitch, or a serger on the edges.
You will need to pin the jeans with a ½ inch seam allowance all the way around on both legs.
Now you’re ready to sew! Using a straight stitch with medium length and corresponding thread color, sew all the way around both pant legs, making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end. Trim all loose threads and you’re done!
Read more about different kinds of stitches here!
For a finished, professional look, sew around the border of the leg with gold thread. It’s very important to use a straight, even stitch because of the contrasting thread color.
To watch the process of hemming jeans with a sewing machine, check out this video:
Thank you to Seway for the use of this video!
How to Hem Pants by Hand
To hem pants by hand, you will need a little more time (close to an hour depending on your stitching speed). You will also need a medium-length, heavyweight hand-sewing needle.
Follow the same steps above: measure and mark the inseam (distance between the top of the crotch to the bottom of the pant leg) and cut or fold the excess fabric.
The best stitch to use for hand sewing is an invisible backstitch. This stitch will not be seen, so perfection is not important. It’s also a sturdy stitch that should stand up to as much if not more, wear and tear as a sewing machine stitch.
Make sure to go around both edges of both legs with a few extra stabilization stitches at the beginning and end. Trim all loose threads and press with an iron to complete the hem.
To watch the process of hemming jeans by hand, check out this video:
Thank you to Made by April for the use of this video!
How to Hem Jeans With Original Hem
You can also use the hand-sewing method to shorten jeans with the original hem. This will make it nearly impossible to see that the jeans have been altered.
To achieve this look, do not cut the jeans. Instead, take the existing seam and fold it to match the new hemline, and pin it in place. Then follow the exact same instructions for hand stitching.
This method is probably the best for beginners to hem jeans, because you do not have a risk of cutting improperly and ruining the jeans. This is also great if you have young children who may need to have the hem lengthened when their next growth spurt happens! Simply tuck the excess fabric above the hem under the jeans and iron it flat. Once again, make sure to trim the loose threads.
How to Hem Skinny Jeans
If you want to know how to hem jeans that aren’t a traditional fit, the method is a little different. The inseam will need to be a bit shorter because you want them to sit right at the ankle, so remember this when measuring.
You also may need to use a stretchy thread if the fabric has more movement than standard denim. Be careful when hemming skinny jeans with a machine. It’s very easy to catch an extra layer in the machine because the leg is so small. I recommend using a hand backstitch to hem skinny jeans.
Some people would rather avoid hemming skinny jeans. If you feel this way, make sure to check out this guide for four different ways to adjust your skinny jeans.
Jeans are a wardrobe staple for many of us. They can be dressed up and dressed down and look great with so many outfits. But, with different size measurements, it can be challenging to find the perfect pair.
But, a solution always makes things better: learn how to hem jeans at home! With a little bit of practice, you will be able to hem all of your own jeans. If you need any additional help hemming jeans or figuring out when to hem, it’s always fun and useful to work with a hemming teacher. That’s right, TakeLessons offers online and in-person classes to help you learn to sew like a pro!
If you have any questions or favorite hemming tips, share them in the comments below!
Post Author: Kari B.Kari has been teaching private sewing lessons since 2006. She previously worked in costume design and crafts at the Barter Theatre in Abingdon, VA. Learn more about Kari here!
Maile Proctor