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Tips on How to Buy Your First Guitar

Tuesday, October 6th, 2009

Here at TakeLessons, we book guitar lessons daily.  Many times our students ask us what type of guitar they should buy for their lessons. While some of our teachers have guitars for the students to use in lessons, many still want to buy their own. One of our Rancho Cordova guitar teachers, Robert (Bob) C. sent us the following advice when selecting a guitar for a beginner guitar student.

Bob C. writes:

Starting music lessons is a wonderful idea and can improve a person’s life.  It has been shown that students who seriously study music develop structures in their brain that MRI studies demonstrate are used for Math and Physics concepts.  In fact, Einstein credits his conceptual creativity on learning the violin at age four.  As you learn, your brain grows musically and you’ll enjoy music much more.

When my students start lessons, I am more than willing to help them obtain a reasonably priced, easy-to-play instrument.  Unfortunately students often show up with a guitar-shaped toy. Parents say “If he/she likes it, we’ll get a better one.”  Well, it rarely works like that. They are generally impossible to play; they hurt your fingers and the sound is not optimal. It might discourage the student to think they can’t play guitar when really it’s just the instrument.

Legend
Image via Wikipedia

My recommended starter guitar:

A steel string guitar has 220 pounds of pressure, and usually has a narrow neck.  It is much easier for the student to start on a nylon string, usually called a classical guitar. Nylon strings are much easier to play and there is more space between the strings making it easier to play chords.

Many children want to learn electric guitar.  However, electrics are a much more expensive proposition. You have to pay for a guitar, electronics, cables and an amp.

You also want to look for a solid top. Why a solid top?  That’s your speaker.  As it is played, it will quickly open up and sound better and better.  Plywood tops will never get the same sound, so look for tops made of quality woods.

I also recommend buying a tuner. Tuning is a fairly difficult task, and learning to tune a guitar with a tuner makes it much easier to do. Tuning is tricky since it involves listening and getting used to adjusting the pitch.   Tuning takes practice and is not easy to do, but an out of tune guitar can really sound terrible. Be sure to purchase a tuner that will let you set which string you are on.

If you go to a store to buy a guitar, there are a few basic things you can check.

1:  If you put a straight edge from the neck, it should hit the bridge, ideally, at the bottom of the saddle.  If not, the angle is off, and the guitar is not one you should buy.  A yardstick or ruler is ideal for this.  If the angle is wrong, the only repair is a neck reset which can cost about $150 or more.

2:  If you push the guitar string down on the top and bottom fret the string should come close to hitting every string, with no more than a 1/8th of an inch.  If not, it will be warped and difficult to play.  Sometimes you can adjust the truss rod and straighten the neck.

3: Play every note on the guitar and make sure that all of them clear the next fret and don’t buzz.

4: It should be as easy to press down on the 12 fret as the first fret.  The notes are closer together up high on the fingerboard.

I recommend that you go to a store to purchase a guitar with someone that knows how to play, whether that is your teacher or someone that works there.

In summary, a playable guitar is a musical instrument, not a toy.   If you buy a toy it may be money wasted and lead to discouraging your child from really playing.  A good student guitar is not very expensive, usually between $100 to $200.   I personally try and keep a few that I sell at cost to students as I want my students to be successful and have a great time.  One last thing to note is that a good guitar will likely appreciate in value over time.   So a good, used, solid-top guitar that is well taken care of can actually be a better investment than the toy option.

And once you purchase your new guitar, remember to always wash your hands before playing.  The acids and dirt on your fingers may ruin the strings and even the guitar itself. Washing your hands will prolong the life of your new investment.

Bob C. TakeLessons Guitar Teacher

Bob C. TakeLessons Guitar Teacher

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So You Wanna Learn to Play Guitar (pt.XX)

Thursday, September 24th, 2009

Kirk Hammett

Here is the latest entry from our excellent San Diego guitar teacher Jason M


So how do you play a Washburn acoustic?  One of the least asked questions I get is that of knowing your tone.  I don't play a Washburn acoustic but I think that it's important to note the tonal qualities of the guitar you own.  The sound that comes out of your axe will shape and define your unique voice to the point that it will eventually become "you". 

I use an ESP KH2 "Skully" Kirk Hammett signature model guitar with dual EMG 81 pickups.  It has 24 frets, an original floyd rose locking tremelo set up with a Jackson reverse dinky headstock and a body that looks like an MII Deluxe.  The neck is a little bit wider than your average electric guitar and has an almost "classical" feel to it when you grip it.  Rather than an old "file down the fret" cliche that allows for optimal shredding, my guitar has jumbo "rounded" frets which if pressed down hard enough can actually make a string bending sound.  The floating bridge takes some getting used to and if you haven't used one before you can actually make the guitar sound out of tune by leaning on it too hard with your right hand palm mute.  It has a 3 way switch which unlike a strat and more like a Les Paul you can "cut" the sound immediatly and make a really nice Morello sounding percussive "on off" sound. 

I also use a Line 6 upgraded AXSYS212 ampliphier with a floorboard that carries both a volume and a wah pedal.  The Line 6 was the first digital amp to master the art of "tube tone" back in the mid-nineties.  I don't think I've ever thought of it as a solid-state amp to be honest.  With 32 presets and 32 user presets with 4 channels each, the options are pretty infinite.  This model can not only replicate the greatest artists of all time but holds

Jason M

countless configurations of individual amp models/effect pedals/cabinet sizes/ and even offers a "noise gate" that you can open or close at will. 

Now that's not my only rig.  I also play a Zakk Wylde custom Epiphone "Les Paul" with 22 frets that I've tricked out with his custom ".60" string set up.  Getting used to a set of strings of that caliber requires a huge change in the amount of hand strength that you need.  It's also got a set of dual EMG pickups and the ability to "cut" the sound out immediately when you toggle between the rhythm and treble pickups (having one volume all the way down of course) like the KH2.

I play that one through a Scott Ian signature Randall ampliphier that has an EQ option of being able to shave your eyebrows off under the right amount of pressure.  It's got a much more pure clean tone than the Line 6 and ultimately I think the distortion channel is superior as well, but it lacks in the pedal effect options.  I like this amp because it has an L and R input in the back that I can hook my CD player or digital studio into and use as a monitor while I'm training. 

As the amp and the guitar make up your unique sound I have a digital studio that completly changes all that.  I record with a Boss BR-532 digital 4-track that has it's own effects that just don't match up to the tones that I can get live.  So technically I have a "recorded" voice and "live" voice.  There are a lot of subtle things that you have to pay attention to in the studio like thinking about "loop effects" and pre-post effects that you can alter during a mastering. 

I bring these things up because as you continue playing you may start to realize that you can't sound like Dragonforce on an acoustic.  Black Sabbath unplugged only works for "Planet Caravan"… and maybe some of their Dio stuff.  If you want to develop your own tone I believe it's important to understand how to control those factors. 

Breakdown your own rig and let me know if you have any questions that might help create your ideal sound.

Until next time, enjoy your tone!

Jason M

Jason M

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So You Wanna Play Guitar (pt.XIX)

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

Chord

Here is the latest blog entry from our talented guitar teacher Jason, covering his thoughts on Music Theory:

I'm pretty excited about some of the response I've been getting from my students about questions they have about Music Theory.  Some of my students are in college, some of them are looking for the lost art of grimoire, and some just wanna know how a chord is built.  I'm finishing up some touches on a book that I've been making and am pleased that my ability to make it has been solely on the requests of those that had the balls to question.

Why Music Theory? 

Music Theory doesn't really have a beginning in my opinion.  It is what it is and I don't abide by it.  I'm also not a hypocrite so let me give you some thoughts on how to know the rules and then break the rules. 

Things to know: Circle of Fifths… a basic diagram of the universe that is music.  Also known as the cycle of 4ths.  It's a circle that can help you determine the Major and minor key signatures and see how they relate to each other.

Modal Scales: Ionian/Dorian/Phrygian/Lydian/Mixolydian/Aeolian/Locrian….. all the same thing.  Ex: CDEFGABC, DEFGABCD, EFGABCDE, FGABCDEF, GABCDEFG, ABCDEFGA, BCDEFGAB.  But is that it?  No, you need to learn the interval structure as well.  W=whole step, H=half step Ex: WWHWWWH, WHWWWHW, HWWWHWW, WWWHWWH, WWHWWHW, WHWWHWW, HWWHWWW.  But is that it? No, now you need to be able to transpose those into all other keys.  Take the same intervalic structure and apply it to the Circle of Fifths in any Key to check out the magic.

Minor Scales: Aeolian is another term for minor, but there are two that you can meld w/the minor to form some almost european metal sound called the Harmonic Minor…. (looks like a minor scale 'sept the 2nd to last note is sharped in a Major fashion) And the Melodic Minor (looks like a Major Scale except the 1st 3 notes look like a regular minor scale ascending/descend just like a regular minor scale)Jason

Chord Theory: Major (1,3,5) Minor or - (1,b3,5) Delta or "triangle" (1357) 7th (1235b7) Augmented or = (13#5) Delta 9 (13579) Know it to the point where you can just say…"so what" and mean it.

Relative Minor: Built on the 6th degree of the root or "1" tone.

The "5" Em minor pentatonic or G Major box patterns: Fun little thing to know before you can think outside the box is to learn the box you wanna think out of.  Move your box shape back three frets and you've uncovered E major or C#minor.

Arpeggios: Just chopped up chords played in a sequence that can be as little as say 3 notes up to 12 notes or more.  Typically you just need to know how far you need to reach to get a solid grasp when really your just playing (CEGCEGCEGCEGCEG) or (AC#EAC#EAC#EAC#E)

Composition:  I wouldn't be in the postion I am today if I didn't write all this down.  Start writing immediatly or you're just blowin' smoke.  Well, not really… but if you wanna understand what the heck you just played or what you're playing… jot it down/put it in ink/immortalize that sucker. Know what a G clef is know that an F clef is for bass, think above and below the ledger lines, understand the rhythm structures.  Write your own TAB.

Harmony: A lot of really great bands have 2 guitar players…those that don't often have a doubled guitar of themselves going while they lead.  Learn to build doubled guitar parts or add a bass part.  Add a vocal melody and you're good.  4 part harmony right there.

Chord progressions: I IV V, basic blues… everything else is out the door.

Now what?  "So what" man… don't quit, be yourself, and remember that everything I just mentioned is just a bunch of… well, second thought.  Study it, then play a few power chords of your own to create what you can call yours.

Rock,

Jason MJason1

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How to buy the first guitar for a student

Sunday, August 23rd, 2009

Guitar Strings

Here is a compelling article about how to choose a guitar from our Rancho Cordova teacher Bob C, who has a Masters in Music from Columbia University.

Starting musical lessons is a wonderful idea and can improve a person’s life.  It has been shown that students that seriously study music develop structures in their brain that MRI studies demonstrate are used for Math and Physics concepts.   In fact, Einstein credits his conceptual creativity on learning the violin at aged four.  As you learn, your brain grows musically and you’ll enjoy music much more.

To start lessons, as the teacher I am more than willing to help obtain a  reasonably priced, easy to play instrument.  Unfortunately students often show up with a guitar shaped toy.

The Toy:

Many parents show up or I find someone bought them a guitar at Wall Mart or similar guitar shaped toy.

The parents say, “If he/she likes it, we’ll get a better one.”   Well, it never works like that.
No one likes to play a piece of junk.  They are generally impossible to play; they hurt your fingers and sound terrible.   If they do everything perfect, which is almost impossible, it will still sound terrible.

The student won’t want to play the guitar.  End of lessons.   It is a sure path for failure.
Worse, it will discourage the student and think they can’t play guitar.     

The Recommended Starter Guitar:

A steel string guitar has 220 pounds of pressure, and usually has a narrow neck.  It is much easier for the student to start on a nylon string, usually called a classical guitar.
Nylon strings are much easier to play and there is more space between the strings making it easier to play chords.    It just is easier. 

Many children want to learn electric guitar.  At some point, when the student has progressed, that’s fine.  However electrics are a much more expensive proposition. You have to pay for a guitar, electronics, cables and an amp.       When a student is ready for an electric they can play and feel how well they play.    

If you prefer to go to a store, I’ll help work with a local store selecting an instrument.  You will pay more at a store, but they will be there if you need repairs or adjustments.

There are a number of excellent Chinese makers and but these people will only export a number at once.   While most Chinese guitars are junk, but there are a few shops that make excellent instruments for the money.  I used to import basses, and I can import very high quality supplier of guitars at low costs.  

Why a solid top?  That’s your speaker.  The more it is played, it will quickly open up and sound better and better.  Plywood tops will never get the beautiful sound.  But the top must be made of good woods and toned correctly.

Please buy a tuner.  Tuning is a fairly difficult task, and learning to tune a guitar with a tuner makes it much easier.   Tuning is tricky since it involves listening, getting used to adjusting the pitch.   Tuning takes practice.  And out of tune guitar really sounds terrible.
Get a tuner that will let you set which string you are on.  Some will play the sound of the note.  Even pros use tuners.  Regardless, I’ll teach you how to tune your guitar.

If you go to a store to buy a guitar, there are a few basic things you can check. 

1:  If you put a straight edge from the neck, it should hit the bridge, ideally, at the bottom of the saddle.  If not, the angle is off, and the guitar will be useless.  A yardstick or ruler is ideal for this.  If the angle is wrong,   the only repair is a neck reset which costs about $150 or more.

2:  If you push the guitar string down on the top and bottom fret the string should come close to hitting every string, with no more than a 1/8th of an inch.  If not it will be warped, and difficult to play.  Sometimes we can adjust the truss rod and straighten the neck.

3: Play every note on the guitar and make sure than all of them clear the next fret and don’t buzz.

4: It should be as easy to press down on the 12 fret as the first fret.  The notes are closer together up high on the fingerboard.  Once again, it is likely the guitar teacher will be able to help get a guitar. 

I think it is foolish to go to a store without someone that knows how to play guitar.  Each instrument that comes off the factory floor is unique.  You will pay much more.

In summary, a playable guitar is a musical instrument, not a toy.   If you buy a toy it will simply be money wasted and discourage your child.  A good student guitar is not very expensive, usually between $100 to $200.   I try and keep a few that I sell at cost to students.  I want my students to be successful and have a great time.  I will be glad to check out family instruments.   A string bass is well over a thousand dollars for even a playable plywood instrument.

And, a good guitar will likely appreciate in value over time.   So you see a good used solid top guitar, well taken care of is actually the better investment than the toy.

Even rock players do most of their personal practice on acoustic instruments.

Many children want to learn electric guitar.  At some point, when the student has progressed, that’s fine.  However they are a much more expensive proposition.   You have to pay for a guitar, electronics, and an amp.  Just think, the cost of pickups alone can easily exceed $100.   The cost for a playable instrument is much more expensive and a cheap one sounds terrible.    When a student is ready for an electric they can play and feel how well they play.     Only buy a guitar when you can get a good quality instrument and amp.

Finally, always wash your hands before playing the guitar.  The acids and dirt on your fingers will ruin the strings and even the guitar. Never let anyone play the guitar without washing their hands.

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